Spandex & Lycra tank tops TIPS with bound neck & armhole

Tank tops are a staple in most American wardrobes, whether for workout wear, or as "shells" under jackets, sweaters, bigshirts, coverups, or similar clothing, and if you want a designer tank top, with a beautifully coordinated, but contrasting bias binding, you can pay ridiculous amounts, even $300 for some designer tank tops!

I live in North Carolina, where it is very hot and humid, at least 50% of the year, so comfortable tops, which allow your skin to breathe, are necessary, and a loose overshirt is often the best way to avoid a sunburn, but still stay comfortable.

The blank tank top is a Spandex ribbed knit, which I really had to use Thread Heaven to dip the needles in, especially, before trying to sew the polyester crepe bias binding on. Knit, or ballpoint stretch needles are essential to avoid tearing holes in the threads, which will cause your fabric to run.

For best results, use a serger to sew a stabilizing 4 thread overlock stitch (possibly with a clear elastic, if you need to ensure the neck & armholes won't gap), before you attempt to add the bias binding, or the ribbed binding.

I used  Sears Kenmore 158.18033 (Model 1803) to sew my seams straight, before I took it to the industrial serger, to serge the seams and shoulders, and to sew the bindings in place, before wrapping them to the back, and coverstitching them. My industrial sergers are incredibly fast, so you have to be able to "steer" well, or you can accidentally trim off too much fabric, and wind up with a tiny, weird garment.

I used my Babylock Evolve coverstitch to do the bindings, at first, using the double fold binder, trying to sew them on in one step, but due to the differences in stretch, between the bindings, and the tank top fabrics, this was a NIGHTMARE! I had to remove them, and try again, 3 times, before using the Kenmore to sew the bindings on, then using the Evolve to coverstitch the bindings down. I have learned to use basting tape, for best results, in sewing down bindings, without puckers, it makes a HUGE difference!

Basting tape is also a huge help in coverstitching the hems, especially of stretchy knits, because it prevents puckers forming, and holes them neatly in place, so you can stitch them, without getting stabbed by pins.

While these tank tops wound up being finished without my bias binders, or folders, I did purchase an actual professional 1/2 inch knit binder that can be used on my coverstitch machine, as well as on lockstitch sewing machines, both home & professional, which have the 2 screw holes in the bed, for attaching them. I did try out the stretch binding, and it does work MUCH better than the double fold bias binder, when using stretch bindings. The double fold bias binder is great for regular bias binding, especially if it has been starched, for best results, but for dealing with super stretchy fabrics, I do recommend buying the industrial knits bias binder. I will post a blog about that binder, later, when I get time.











Coming soon, a tutorial on using the knit bias binder, versus regular bias binder

Kenmore 1803 with 1/2 inch industrial knits bias binder, attached on a fold away attachment. I am applying a rather thick Spandex rib knit binding, to a cotton tank top, which I plan to turn into a sports bra.

To see my Vintage Sewing Machine Blogs about finding, fixing, and using Vintage Sewing Machines, here is a link to that blog, which has close to 100 posts!

https://tumorfarmer.blogspot.com/2019/06/sears-kenmore-1803-sewing-machine.html